Threading the Needle (Part I)

While the fabric choices for a quilt are seemingly endless, likewise, the thread choices aren’t any fewer.  Nope.  From any big box/craft store to your local quilt shop, one glance at the thread selection is enough to make you take a step back and wonder if you could ever really make the right thread selection for your quilt.  There’s polyester. Polyester thread wrapped in cotton.  Cotton thread.  Metallic.  Rayon.  Monofilament.  Then there’s weights – from 30 to 100 – which one is the right one?  So many choices…

Before you pull out your hair and start running for the hills, the quick answer is this: For most quilting projects, a high-quality, 100% cotton thread between 40 and 50 weight is ideal.  However, the best thread choice can vary depending on your project and quilting technique. 

For me, a self-professed thread snob, choosing my thread is a bit more difficult than picking out my fabrics.  That may sound counter intuitive, being that the fabric is a much more “in your face” choice – it’s the first thing most people notice about your quilt.  However, if fabric is truly the backbone of a quilt, then the thread is the tendons and muscles which hold that backbone in place.  So…

Thread is not a last-minute decision.

Thread is not a “whatever is cheapest will work” choice.

Thread is not a “whatever I have on hand is fine” preference.

The choice of thread determines how well your quilt stays together, whether the quilt lives its life hanging on a wall or on the floor as a play quilt for the kiddos.  The thread controls the appearance of the quilting – whether it sinks into the fabric and batting or co-stars with the fabric and quilt design.  The thread can add special effects to your top with sparkle and shine.  Or it can be completely transparent.

It all depends on which thread you use.

What I hope to do with this blog is discuss the pros and cons of different thread types (including specialty threads), the factors to consider when selecting thread, tension issues, lint production, and color fastness.  There is a lot of ground to cover with the topic, and I may need to split this blog into two parts to keep you from becoming overwhelmed.  But first, there are some general guidelines we need to discuss. 

• There is a difference between quilting thread and piecing thread.

Piecing thread is the thread used to sew the block units into blocks and the blocks into the quilt top.  Think of this as the “general sewing thread” of the quilt world.  Typically, this is a 40 or 50 weight thread (weight will be discussed a bit later), and most of the time quilters keep piecing thread in the neutral range – beiges, grays, dark grays, blacks, white – so we don’t have to keep changing spools of thread when we move to another section of the quilt block that’s a different color.  The neutrals will fit into whatever we’re piecing.  My exception to this is if I am moving from a bright color (such as a red) to a light neutral (such as gray or white).  White thread would stand out in the seam of a red, and a red thread would show up in the seam of a light fabric.  If the quilt top was comprised of two fabrics – such as a red and white – I would change color as I moved from one block unit to the next.  Or I would sew with white thread and where it stood out against the red fabric, I would use a red Pigma pen to color the white thread.  Using neutrals as your piecing thread also allows you to buy in bulk with full assurance every inch of the thread will be used. 

Quilting thread is the thread used to hold the top, center, and back of the quilt together.  Quilting thread is stronger, more durable, and crafted to withstand the stress of multiple layers of fabric, batting, and the constant friction of the quilting process – whether it’s on your domestic sewing machine or a long arm.  While most quilters use 100% cotton thread in a 40 or 50 weight for piecing, quilting thread can run the gamut from cotton to polyester to blends to monofilament in weights ranging from 30 to 100.  It all depends on the look you want and the color(s) you desire.

There is also a big, big difference between hand quilting thread and quilting thread meant for a machine.  Hand quilting thread is generally clearly labeled “For Hand Quilting.”  It feels stiffer than machine quilting thread.  This is because hand quilting thread has been coated with either several applications of beeswax or some other glaze (spools of hand quilting thread may be labeled “Glace Thread”).  It’s not a good idea to try to use hand quilting thread in a sewing machine or long arm.  Whatever the thread is glazed with can rub off between the tension disks and make quilting a nightmare, as well as damage your machine.   

• Some thread does have a shelf life.

Let me say that today’s thread – the type you purchase at either a big box store or a local quilt shop – lasts for years and years and years.  The manufacturing techniques have changed and improved so much that the thread you buy today can be used years from now quite successfully in a quilt.  However…if any of the thread you have in your stash are on gold, Styrofoam, or wooden spools, such as these

Toss them.  Or at least don’t use them in a quilt.  The thread is quite wonderful for basting or back basting applique, but not for any long-term existence in a quilt, either as quilting or piecing thread.  The thread on these spools was made before our improved manufacturing techniques and generally can’t be trusted for durability.  They do look pretty sitting in a basket or in a jar in your studio, though.

If there is any doubt about a thread’s shelf life, spool out about 8-to-10 inches of the thread.  Hold the spool in one hand and grasp the end of the thread with the other hand and try to snap the thread into two pieces.  If this is done fairly quickly and easily, I’d think twice about putting in a quilt.  If it doesn’t, it should be okay to use. 

• There are some key characteristics of good piecing and quilting thread.

These characteristics separate the merely “good” thread from the “great” thread.  And after you’ve gotten a few quilts finished, you may decide you prefer one brand over the other because that brand embraces the following characteristics.  I am an Aurifil Thread enthusiast when it comes to piecing, but for the actual quilting process – my choices are all over the map.

A good piecing and quilting thread:

1.  Is strong – It can handle tension without breaking.
2. Has low lint production – Usually this comes from using a long-staple thread or polyester thread.  Less lint means a cleaner machine and smoother quilting.
3. Remain colorfast – Will maintain a vibrant hue wash after wash.
4. Keeps a consistent finish – Thread comes in either a glossy or matte finish.  Each of these finishes has a place in quilting, depending on the results the quilter desires.  However, the thread should not move from a glossy to matte finish on the same spool.
5. It has some elasticity – You want the thread to be able to stretch just a bit, because it can help prevent puckering.

The ideal quilting and piecing thread strikes a balance between these characteristics, providing both strength and flexibility, and beauty without compromising performance. 

An Explanation of Thread Weight

We could spend literally pages and pages of this blog discussing thread weights, the methods used to develop these weights, and which method is the most accurate.  However, unless you’re planning a future in textile production, thread inspection, or any other really super-technical textile-related field, we can skip all those details and just get down the parts which really affect us quilters – what the weight means.

Typically, somewhere on a spool of thread – the top, bottom, or printed super-tiny on the side of the spool top – you will see the weight (40 wt, 50 wt, etc).  The “wt” which follows the number indicates the thickness of the thread.  However, here’s the kicker — higher the number, the thinner the thread.  So, a 50 wt thread is actually thinner than a 40 wt thread.  Completely counterintuitive, but that’s the way thread works.  If you can remember that the number (such as 50) represents how many kilometers of thread it takes to weigh 1 kilogram, perhaps that will help it make sense or not.  Just keep in mind it takes more kilometers of a finer thread to reach that 1-kilogram mark.  Generally speaking, the thread weights and their common uses are these:

60 wt and above – delicate quilting or applique

50 wt – all-purpose quilting and piecing

40 wt – decorative quilting and topstitching

30 wt – bold quilting designs or hand piecing.

Making sure you are using the correct weight of thread for the effect you want is crucial.  If you use a 30 wt thread for piecing, it will take up too much room in the ¼-inch seam allowance, making piecing and pressing infinitely difficult.  But if you want the quilting stitches to shine, the 30 wt thread is perfect. 

Types of Threads Used in Quilting

The following are the types of threads most commonly used by quilters.  This doesn’t mean you can’t branch out and try other threads for effect.  It also doesn’t mean you have to follow this chart strictly and use only 50 wt cotton thread for piecing.  There are a few tricks you can use to make a 40 wt work for piecing.  We will cover some of the techniques you can use for thready situations like this and just remember – relax, there are no quilt police.

Cotton Thread

Cotton threads are the most commonly used piecing and quilting threads.  These natural fibers are gentle on fabric and provide a beautiful, soft finish.  Cotton threads are especially popular for traditional quilting projects and heirloom pieces.  They come in a wide range of weights, with the 50 wt being the most common for piecing and quilting.  Egyptian cotton threads are the crème de la crème of cotton quilting threads.  Their long staples (fibers) result in a smoother, stronger thread which produces less lint (staples and why they’re important are discussed a bit later in this blog).

Polyester Thread

The polyester thread we use today is a far, far cry from the types your mother and grandmother used back in the 1970’s and early-to-mid eighties.  When I began quilting in the early eighties, quilters were warned not to use polyester thread with 100% cotton fabrics – the polyester thread was so rough it would cut through the cotton fibers.  This is no longer the case.  Today’s polyester thread has excellent strength and durability, making them ideal for quilts which will see frequent use and washings.  Polyester threads are less prone to breakage and can withstand high tensions, making them a great choice for machine quilting.

According to a survey conducted by the International Quilt Museum, approximately 35% of modern quilters prefer polyester threads for their projects because polyester threads are colorfast, resistant to mildew, and maintain their strength over time.  In addition, they come in a wide variety of colors.

Cotton-Polyester Blend Thread

These threads take the best of both cotton and polyester fibers by combining the softness of cotton and the strength of polyester.  These blends are excellent for both piecing and quilting, and provide a balance of durability and a natural feel. 

Specialty Thread (Metallic, Variegated, Etc)

These are what I call my Diva Threads.  They are special.  They are show-stoppers.  And if used correctly and appropriately, add pizzazz to your quilts by making them truly one-of-a-kind.  Here’s the rundown:

Metallic threads can add a touch of glamor and effect with shimmering gold, silver or copper accents.  My personal opinion – they absolutely rule Christmas quilts.

Variegated threads change color as you quilt, creating beautiful, subtle patterns as you go.  And for raw edge applique, they can save you tons of time.  Have a mass of leaves in a lot of different shades of green?  Find a wonderful variegated green and load it in your machine.  It takes care of changing out green threads every few minutes.

Glow-in-the-dark threads are perfect for adding a fun, unexpected element to children’s quilts or Halloween projects.

Silk threads are both luxurious and strong and are ideal for applique and delicate quilting.

Monofilament thread is great to use for outlining applique shapes or stitch in the ditch before quilting and to use in both raw-edge and finished-edge applique.  Since it’s see-through, there’s no fumbling for the correct color of thread to match the fabric.  Monofilament comes in two shades – clear and smokey.  Use the clear for bright colors and the smokey for dark ones.

These Diva Threads can add a lot to a quilt, but it’s important to remember they are specialty threads.  They may require some finagling with your tension and changing your machine needle out a few times to prevent frustration and achieve the best results.  In addition, I’ve discovered the following quirks about them:

Variegated Thread – I love variegated thread for raw-edge applique.  And you would assume if you had pieced a quilt and could find a variegated thread to match it, that the thread would be perfect to quilt with.  For instance, if you made a red, white and blue quilt and had a spool of red, white, and blue thread, the quilt would look great quilted with the variegated. 

Hm.  That depends.

There are a couple of issues to think about when using variegated.  The first issue concerns quilting.  Unless you have your thread tensions perfectly perfect, 100 percent of the time, the bobbin thread will occasionally “pop” to the top between stitches.  And if the bobbin thread is a different color than the variegated or even the variegated thread itself, the “pop” of bobbin thread will glaringly show up on the front of the quilt.   I’ll be honest, the only time I’m really picky about this is if my quilt is show bound.  Those bobbin “pops” of thread in different colors other than my quilting thread would get points knocked off my score.  However, if the quilt has no shows in its future, I love variegated thread for quilting. 

The second issue with variegated thread concerns the undyed parts of the thread:

Those white spaces seem to break more frequently and a lot more easily than the dyed parts.  If I plan to quilt with variegated, I look for a brand such as King Tut (Superior Thread) which has little to no white spaces.

Glow-in-the-Dark Thread – I made two small Halloween quilts last year and thought I would quilt both with glow-in-the-dark thread.  After the first block, I threw that idea out the window.  Despite the fact I was using a name-brand thread which garnered good reviews, I had a difficult time working with it.  I ended up using a jeans needle, a 50 wt white cotton thread in the bobbin (to match the back of the quilts), playing with the tension, and actually positioning the spool of glow-in-the-dark thread several feet from my machine in a coffee cup.  That extra space allowed it to unspool a bit more freely and relax longer before it ran through my sewing machine (domestic, not long arm).  I also would keep my quilting stitches confined to lazy loops and easy meanders, or better yet, straight line stitching.  I found the thread broke with any tiny stitches taken in small places.  While I absolutely would use this thread again, I would limit its use to highlighting special parts of the quilt, or outlining words or figures.

Silk Threads – Silk thread is absolute ideal for delicate finished-edge machine applique or thread painting.  You can’t beat its sheen or the richness of color all while being a very fine thread.  There are a few words of caution I would give to anyone to make their quilting experience a good one with silk thread. First, use the recommended sewing machine needle — usually this is a 55/7.  Silk needles have an extra-light ball point and have an enlarged eye in relation to the thin, flexible shape of the needle. It is the smallest size needle available for home sewing machines and is meant to be used when sewing on thin fabrics with lightweight threads, such as 100 wt. silk threads. 

Next, be sure you’re using silk threads with lightweight fabric, such as fine cotton with a high thread count.  If you’re actually using the silk thread application as part of the quilting process, cotton fabrics and a thin bat (such as a cotton or silk batt) are your best choices. 

Finally, carefully consider the aftercare of the quilt.  While silk threads are beautiful, they are not the strongest thread and can break when the quilt gets wet.  The stress put on the fabric and thread as you’re trying to pick up a wet quilt can cause the thread to pop. 

Monofilament thread – This thread is usually pretty easy to work with.  For best results, choose a monofilament thread made from polyester, and avoid any made from nylon and use cotton thread in the bobbin.  If you have trouble with tension or the thread working its way through the machine to form stitches, put the spool in a cup or some other container and set it several feet away from the machine and then thread as normal.  The additional time this gives the thread before it runs through the machine allows it to relax a bit and become easier to work with.  While I don’t personally quilt my quilt entirely with monofilament thread, I know quilters who do if they want the quilting thread to literally fade into the background and only leave quilty texture behind (I prefer the 100 wt polyester thread for this).  Best advice I can give you – purchase a quality monofilament thread (such as YLI or Superior Threads), don’t use super-high heat near the thread, and be willing to play with your tension for a bit to get those stitches perfect.

Choosing the right thread is like picking the perfect dance partner for your fabric.  It should complement your project, enhance your design, and make the whole process more enjoyable.  With those thoughts in mind, next week, we’ll take a look at picking out the right threads for different quilting techniques.  Whether you’re piecing blocks, machine quilting, hand quilting, or doing applique work, the thread you select can impact the overall look, durability, and quality of your quilt.

Until Next Week,

Love and Stitches,

Sherri and Felix