Here’s a few more mistakes we make and how to correct them.
- Rows Don’t Line Up or Points are Chopped Off. As far as the blocks in the rows not lining up:
Sometimes this is caused by inaccurate cutting, but more often than not it’s caused by inconsistent seam allowances. I know you’ve heard me ad nauseum about keeping a consistent seam allowance, but it’s important for all types of piecing. So if your blocks are offset from each other in rows, the first thing to check is your seam allowances. Most of the time if this is corrected, the blocks will line up just fine.
I have learned for myself that consistent measuring and squaring up usually eliminates mismatched rows. It’s a process. First I make a test block. If the block is the correct unfinished size, make a note of the unfinished size of each block unit (such as four-patches, flying geese, etc.). Then I cut out my fabric and make enough block units to create several blocks. I sew the blocks, measure them, and trim if necessary. If the blocks require sashing, I also cut out my vertical sashing strips and sew those to the right side of the block. If both the block and the sashing strips match perfectly, then I know both my cutting and my piecing is accurate. Once I make two rows, I sew those together. If the rows match up the way they should, I continue this process. It’s a lot easier to correct mistakes when there’s only two or three than to complete the quilt center only to discover things really went wonky on the second row.
Chopped off points are a pretty easy fix. We’ll use a flying geese unit as an example. Personally, I have found the basic flying geese construction the most accurate way to make one of these units (other than paper piecing).
Once you have your “geese” rectangle and your side squares cut out, draw a diagonal line across the squares. Lay the squares, right sides together, on the ends of the rectangle. Sew a thread or two above the line. Repeat on the other end of the rectangle. Press and trim the excess square fabric away.
If this process has been accurately completed, there should be ¼-inch (or slightly more) fabric extending beyond the beak of the goose. Now flip the flying geese over and look at the back of it.See that spot where the two lines of stitches makes the X? When joining the flying geese to another unit or piece of fabric, the stitching line should go right through the middle of the X or slightly above it.
This way the point isn’t chopped off. This holds true for any point or corner. Make sure your stitching line is slightly above the point or corner and it won’t be lobbed off when joining it to another unit.
- Wavy Borders or Sashing. I won’t go into a lot of detail here, but will point out this blog: https://sherriquiltsalot.com/2020/06/03/destination-the-borders/ which shows the correct way to put on borders and why it’s important to measure, measure, measure. What I will say is make sure your borders and sashing strips are all cut on the same grain – either all width of fabric or length of fabric. Don’t mix the two. That will definitely cause them to be wavy.
- Where Do I Look When I’m Sewing or Quilting? This almost seems like a “duh” question – you look at your fabric, right? But where on your fabric? At the needle? The point before the needle? Or is it behind the needle?
Sewing is a bit like driving a car. Your focal point should be slightly forward to see where you’re going. The eyes need to be focused on the point before the fabric goes under the needle – this is true no matter if you’re quilting or piecing. This line of vision helps you see where you need to go before you’re already there.
- Squaring Up. This is one point I really try to drill home with my beginner quilters. Yes, squaring up is important. While squaring up isn’t as fun as piecing, it is just as important. When each block unit is the correct size, each block is the correct size, each piece of sashing or setting units are the correct size, and the borders are the correct size, your quilt top will lie completely flat, which is one of the goals. And a flat quilt top quilts beautifully. To find out how to do this, go here: https://sherriquiltsalot.com/2022/11/16/what-you-need-to-know-about-grain-lines-and-squaring-up/
- Never Underestimate How Important Pressing Is. Pressing after each step helps your block units lie flatter, therefore your block will be flat. Pressing seams in the correct direction allows you to nest seams, so corners, points, and seams line up. Pressing in the correct direction prevents “shadowing” from the darker fabric (always press towards the dark side as much as possible). However, the most important thing I think good pressing technique does is reduce bulk. If seams are pressed to the side where needed, or open, bulk is reduced which makes the block lie flat and makes the quilt easier to quilt. The needle won’t stall out in bulky spots.
- The Kind of Thread and Needle Used Is Important. The right tool for the job makes the job much easier. Many of my regular readers remember I am a thread snob. Cheap thread leads to lint. Lint makes your machine work harder and need frequent cleaning. Long staple thread produced less lint. For piecing, you don’t want a thread weight which takes up a lot of space in your seam allowance. A 50- or 60-weight thread (preferably two-ply) makes a great piecing thread. Quilting thread is an entirely personal choice. If you want your quilting stitches to melt into the background, choose a thread with a higher weight. To show off your stitches, a lower weight thread works well.
Be sure to match the correct needle to the thread and fabric. This is source of many skipped stitches – the needle is too large or too small for the diameter of the thread or you’re using the wrong needle to sew the fabric.
- Not Storing Your Quilt Sandwich Correctly. If there be some time between when you layer your quilt sandwich and the time you sit down to quilt it, be careful how you store your sandwich. If you’ve spray basted, laying it flat until it’s quilting is a good idea. Remember basting spray is not a permanent adhesive. Folding the sandwich several times can cause the quilt layers to come “unstuck.” If you baste with needle and thread, make sure the basting stitches are secure enough to keep everything in place. The same goes with pin basting. If you’ve pin basted, make sure the pins are close enough together, so nothing shifts. And beware of brass pins. A friend of mine used brass pins to baste with, then set the sandwich a side for several months. When she returned to the sandwich to quilt it, the brass pins had rusted, leaving brown spots all over the front and back of the quilt.
- Check for Fabric Value. I’m not talking about monetary value. Nope. While that can be important, what’s even more important is you have lights, darks, and medium color values in your quilt. When pulling fabric for your quilt, it’s easy to use all the fabric from one family. And there’s nothing wrong with that, except most fabric families now are primarily mediums. And this means your quilt will look “muddy” because there are no true lights or true darks to mix things up and cause distinct contrasts. The easiest way to make sure you have a good mix of lights, darks, and mediums is use your phone to take a picture of the fabric. Once the photo is in your album, edit it to the back and white (sometimes called noir, silver tone, or mono) setting. Then give it a close look. If you can clearly see white, gray, and dark gray-to-black fabric images, you’re good to sew. If everything is gray-ish, you’ve chosen all mediums and need to revisit your fabric choices.
- Keep Spray Bottles Clearly Marked and Separated. This is one of those mistakes which comes from personal experience. As quilters we have spray bottles of starch, sizing, starch alternatives, water, Flatter, and spray baste. It’s okay to keep all those spray bottles used with your iron on or near your pressing surface. May want to keep that spray baste in another area of your studio, away from your pressing station. Just sayin’.
- May Want to Take a Peek Beneath the Fabric Before You Sew. This primarily applies when you’re sewing a lot of fabric bulk, bulky seams, etc. Make sure you don’t have the additional bulk of something else caught up in your fabric. It’s easy to get a border folded back on itself and sewn into a seam twice. If you’re in the quilting process, it’s common to have the quilt back pucker because it’s gotten caught up in the wrong place. And I’ve even accidentally had the sleeve of the extra-large sweatshirt I was wearing get sewn into a quilt. That was not a good day.
- Close that Rotary Cutter When You’ve Finished Cutting. I think if there are children around your cutting area, you tend to be very safety conscious and close the cutter when your through. However, when you’re alone or with other adults, you may opt to let this safety rule slide. Please don’t. Close the cutter. Accidents happen. I left a cutter open on the mat and my cat, Sam, jumped on the cutting table about the time I laid the rotary cutter on the mat. As a result, the cutter was knocked off, bounced off my knee, and slid down the front of my leg. I didn’t require stitches, but I didn’t think I would ever get the bleeding stopped.
Come to think of it, wear closed toe shoes in your cutting area, too. If you accidentally drop an open cutter on your foot, it could be disastrous.
- Be Careful How You Transport Your Sewing Machine. More than likely, at some point, you will need to make your machine mobile. You may want to take a quilting class or attend a retreat and need to take your sewing machine with you. I’ve tried corralling my machine in the back of my car or in the floorboard. The best way I’ve found to keep the machine stable, in one piece, and unharmed is to set it in one of the seats and seatbelt it in. The seatbelt holds everything nice and steady until you get where you’re going. This is important because the last thing you really want to do is deal with the aftermath of A). Gathering all the pieces of your sewing machine back together once you arrive at your destination or B). Find out your machine took a hard tumble and no longer works.
- Sometimes Handwork is Easier than Machine Work. There are some quilters who enjoy handwork and there are others who would prefer not to hand piece. Then there are those who absolutely refuse any type of handwork at any time. I’m one of those who enjoy both. However, I do understand those who do not, under any circumstances, want to do any handwork. But, let me throw this in here: Under some situations, hand piecing is actually easier and faster than machine piecing. I’m thinking about small, set-in seams in particular. In those situations, hand piecing is more accurate and faster than wresting with a sewing machine. And if per chance you do make a mistake, hand stitching is easier to take out in those situations than machine stitches.
I hope my mistakes and how I corrected them prevents you from having the same problems I did. And if you find you’re continually making these mistakes, I hope my “fixes” can help you put a stop to your problems.
Until Next Week, Keep Stitching.
From My Studio to Yours,
Love and Stitches,
Sherri and Felix
