I Like Thick Thread and I Cannot Lie… (Apologies to Sir Mix-A-Lot)

If you’ve read any of my blogs about thread, you may remember a few things about my relationship with it.

1. I am a self-professed thread snob.  I am picky.  And I don’t like the cheap stuff.
2. For piecing, I like a 2-ply, 50-weight thread – usually either Aurifil or Wonderfil. 

My overall plan with piecing any top is to reduce bulk as much as possible in the seams, so I like a thinner thread that’s strong.  But that’s for piecing.  When it comes to the applique and the quilting process, I have a confession to make – I like thick thread and I cannot lie.  While my selection in piecing thread is pretty tame and consistent, my choices in quilting thread run all over the map.  If I just want lots of lush, quilting texture, I go for a thin thread, such as Superior Thread’s Micro Quilter.  It’s a 100-weight thread which simply melts into the background and leaves lots of wonderful texture behind.  If I’m quilting a lap quilt, cuddle quilt, charity quilt, or just a quilt with no other special purpose other than keeping folks warm, I tend to reach for a 40 to 50-weight thread.  However, if I want my quilt to bring the drama, if I am confident in my quilting stitches, I reach for a 12 to 30-weight quilting thread.  If you remember anything about thread weights, the higher the number, the thinner the thread.  So while a 100-weight Micro Quilter may be super thin, a 12 or 30-weight is super thick.  With this type of thread, the quilting definitely either co-stars with the piecing or is the star of the quilt itself. 

In today’s blog, I want to show you how lovely this thicker thread is and how to incorporate it into your quilts or your quilting projects (this thread works really well with bags).  I also want to give you a few hints about how to prepare your machine for this thread (we’re talking about domestic machines in this blog, not long arms), how to quilt with the thicker thread, and what are some pitfalls to avoid. First let’s talk about sewing machine needles.

Preparing Your Machine to Sew with Thicker Thread

• The smaller the sewing machine needle number, the finer the needle.  This type of needle can be used for thin threads, such as silk or an 80-weight or above.  The higher the number, the larger the eye of the needle, and the better it’s able to handle thicker thread.  Typically the most commonly used sewing machine needle is a 90/14 (the first number – in this case 90 – is the European number; the second number – in this case 14 – is the American number).  However, for thicker threads, the eye of the needle needs to be larger to accommodate the fatter thread.  A topstitching needle is a good choice as they have both a larger eye and a deeper groove along the needle shaft.  Another good choice is a 100/16.

• Tension adjustments may also need to be made.  Thicker threads may require loosening the tension slightly to prevent the bobbin thread from pulling through to the top and to ensure the thread lays flat. 

• Use a thinner thread in the bobbin than on the top.  This can minimize tension issues and bulk when machine quilting.  A 50-weight thread in the bobbin works really well.

• You may want to skip using your automatic needle threader if your machine has one.  It may not work with the thicker thread.  Plan to thread your machine manually.

• You also may want to skip using your automatic thread cutter when sewing with heavier thread.   Often the automatic cutter won’t play nice with the thicker thread.

• Lengthen your stitch.  While the thicker thread is lovely, it does create a bit of bulk that could bunch up under your presser foot.  Lengthen your stitch just a bit.  My M7 is factory set at a stitch length of 2.5.  I lengthen my stitch to 3.1 to 3.5 to keep the fabric feeding evenly over the feed dogs.

• If your machine has fancy, decorative stitches, play with those using thicker threads.  Avoid densely stitched patterns, such as the satin stitch, because those can become bogged down with the heavier thread.  But open-ish designs, such as the ones below, are great.  It’s like the thicker thread punches the design work up a notch or two.

• Don’t be afraid to experiment.  Try different needle sizes, different tension settings, and different stitch lengths to find out what works best for your specific machine and thread combination.

Taking a Closer Look at Thicker Thread

In many ways, finding a good, heavier weight thread is just like determining a good piecing thread.  You want a thread that’s not linty, has no slubs, and the plies hold tightly together.  If the thread is 100% cotton, a long staple cotton will work better than a short staple one.  Unspool several inches of the thread and run it between your index finger and thumb.    If you feel any bumps, discard the thread.  These are slubs and all they will do is aggravate you.  They won’t go through the eye of the needle and will jam up the stitching process.

If you’re working with a polyester thread, chances are there won’t be any slubs.  But what I have found out through the years is that some sewing machines can be pretty persnickety about thick polyester thread.  Some machines like certain brands better than others.  Generally my M7 plays well with every brand except Glide.  For whatever reason, those two do not work well together.  I’ve tried different needle sizes, different needle brands, all types of tension adjustments, but the fairy tale is just not happening.  I simply don’t quilt with Glide. 

Just like with sewing machine settings, don’t be afraid to experiment with different types of thread so you can see what types and brands work well in your machine.  Just remember to keep a 50-weight thread in your bobbin.  And one final word – hand quilting thread is generally a thicker thread, but you don’t want to use it in your sewing machine.  Some hand quilting thread is glazed, meaning it has been treated with beeswax or some other substance to keep the thread from tangling and knotting during the hand quilting process.  The beeswax (or whatever is used to glaze the thread) can rub off in your tension disks and cause a lot of trouble.

For additional information about machine quilting thread, go here: https://sherriquiltsalot.com/2021/05/26/thread-the-stuff-which-holds-it-all-together/

Preparing to Quilt with a Heavier Weight Thread

At this point in my quilting blogs, I know I sound like a broken record, but here I go one more time:  Practice. Practice.  And practice some more.  Even if you’re pretty proficient in the machine quilting process, heavier weight threads just give a bit of a different feel when you quilt with them.  Make some small-ish quilt sandwiches and get ready to play. 

The first step I want you to take is to thread your machine with the heavier thread on top of the machine, making sure you have a top stitching needle,  90/14, or 100/16 needle inserted in the machine.  Wind a bobbin with 50-weight thread and drop in your bobbin case and then attach the walking foot onto your machine.  While yes, you can certainly free motion quilt with the heavier thread, starting out with the walking foot allows you to get a good feel for the differences in the weight of a thicker thread without having to worry about manually controlling your stitch length.  Lengthen your stitch length, slow your stitching speed down, and then begin sewing simple, straight lines across your quilt sandwich.  After you’ve completed a few, stop and admire the thread.  Do you like what you see?  Is the thicker thread showy enough for you or do you want to kick it up to a 12-weight just to see how it looks?  Compare the stitching with this type of quilting thread to some quilting performed with a 40 or 50-weight thread.  The stitches made with the lower weight thread seem to melt into the background when compared to those stitches stitched with the heavier thread. 

Remove the quilt sandwich from your machine and with a marking pen, draw some zigzags across the top.  Re-insert the sandwich under your needle and stitch the zigzags.  Repeat the exercise but this time try Greek Keys, Squares-in-a-Square, and any other design (such as gentle curves) which can be performed while using your walking foot. 

Once you’ve tried these stitches out with your walking foot, try one of your more “open” decorative stitches.  By open, I mean any decorative stitch that doesn’t require a close placement of the stitches, like a satin-type stitch

Sometime these stitches can be performed with the walking foot still on your machine, but others may require you to switch to an open-toe type of foot.  Consult your sewing machine manual to check the requirements for your machine.  Once you have the correct foot on (or can continue to use your walking foot), try a few of the open designs with the heavier thread.

The stitches with thicker thread look so different than those made with a traditional 50-weight thread.  And while you’re test driving these stitches, it would a good time to note on your quilting sample what these could be used for. Scales on a fish or butterfly wing? Flower details?  Bird wings?  Heaven knows most of us have at least a dozen fancy stitches on our machines.  Now is a great time to use them!

Let’s try free motion quilting with the heavier thread.  This is a little trickier than quilting with a walking foot, but it’s still not too difficult.  There are two very important guidelines to remember with this exercise.  First, slow your stitching speed down.  I generally do not free motion quilt very fast even when I use a 40-weight thread, but I still need to slow down a tad more with the heavier-weight thread.  This slower speed helps keep the thread from “bunching” and assists in the second guideline, which is be sure to lengthen your stitch  to a little longer than 1/8-inch.  With free motion quilting, the feed dogs are dropped, and you control the stitch length.  It honestly takes a bit of practice to manually lengthen the stitch. 

Once you’re consistently keeping a longer stitch length, try some of your “go-to” free motion patterns.  I think you’ll be surprised how different they look with a heavier weight thread. 

One last tip about quilting with a thicker thread.  There may come a time when you would like the heavier weight thread to showcase the quilting on the quilt back.  This is especially true if the quilt back is a solid color.  Using a thicker thread on the back could definitely bring the zing.  When this is the case, simply quilt your quilt from the back instead of the front.  Thread the machine as normal, with a 50-weight thread in the bobbin, but when you position the quilt sandwich, place it with the back of the quilt face up, and quilt per normal.

Thinking Outside the Box with Machine Applique

Normally, when quilters begin discussing machine applique, three types of stitches are involved in the conversation: The blanket stitch for raw edge applique, the hem stitch for prepared edge applique, or a variation of a zigzag stitch which can be used for either raw edge applique or prepared edge applique.  Right now, I want to banish all three of these from your mind as we move into the final part of this blog.  That’s right.  You have my permission to pretend they simply do not exist.  I also want you to forget about 40 or 50-weight thread used in most machine applique projects. 

Let’s take a fresh look at machine applique and this time let’s pull in some heavier weight thread and some of the decorative stitches on your sewing machine.  You can completely change the way your applique looks.  First, let’s take a look at the decorative stitches on your machine.  You’ll need a stitch that can be easily manipulated around the edges of the applique pieces, just like the blanket or blind hem stitch.  These are a few from my M7 I think would work well.  They are open (so the thicker thread won’t bunch) and can be controlled enough to stitch around the applique pieces to keep those in place. 

From there, you’re applique pieces are a blank canvas.  You can use those thick threads and fancy stitches to define and design petals, flower centers, and leaves…

Give figures such as my favorite Sunbonnet Sue a complete make over…

And add delicate details in thread which would be a pain in the tookus to make with fabric.

Or punch up standard blanket stitch into something just a bit more exciting. 

Incorporating heavier threads into quilting projects expands so many creative possibilities and allows you to break through the standard designs.  It adds a layer of fun and new possibilities to even the most traditional designs.  Thicker threads give more texture to quilting stitches and makes for striking applique work.  Experiment!  Push the boundaries of what you traditionally do!  Break out your thicker thread and set aside some time with it and a scrap quilt sandwich.  You’ll not be disappointed.  It is truly time well spent.

Until Next Week,

Love and Stitches,

Sherri and Felix