Back it Up

Let’s talk about one more quilt topic we generally think about at the last minute:  The backing fabric.  Once the quilt top is constructed, the backing is another one of those last decisions we need to make.  It’s an important one, because besides completing the look of the quilt, this is also the area which can absorb the most abuse.  While the front of the quilt is looked at and admired, the back of the quilt (at least for the most part) is always against something – the sheets on the bed, a wall, a tabletop, etc.  It is constantly in contact with a surface.  The backing needs to be attractive, but sturdy. 

Many quilters (including myself) like to make their back out of the fabric in their stash.  So many times we make pieced backs.  However, when I can find a wide back on sale, I like to purchase it, because my longarm doesn’t like pieced backing.  Between either piecing the back, or purchasing a wide back, there are several ideas to keep in mind about the quilt back, such as aesthetics, fabric type, seam placement, ensuring the back compliments the front, and that it’s large enough for quilting.  And for this part of the blog, I am only dealing with cotton fabric.  At the end we’ll cover using minky, flannel, and bedsheets.

AESTHETICS AND COORDINATION

It’s easy to think that the type of backing isn’t really a concern.  It doesn’t matter what kind of fabric you use, as long as it’s big enough.  Since the back is seldom seen, does it really matter?

I’ve always believed a quilter should think of their quilt as a package deal.  I believe it’s a good idea to have some kind of completed concept of the quilt before you take your first cut in the fabric.  You may not have figured out every single, last detail yet, and many of us know we tend to make impulsive design decisions as we go along, but overall, I think some kind of final concept is a good thing to have in mind – and this includes the backing.  You want the back to coordinate with the quilt top’s colors, patterns, and textures (although this one can be sidetracked). 

The quilting thread should also be given some consideration as you chose your quilt back.  We spend a bit of time (hopefully) as we consider what thread we’ll use to quilt the quilt.  We think about what kind of texture it will or won’t leave, and will it be readily seen or sink into the fabric.  It’s important to know you can use two different colors when you or your longarm artist is quilting the quilt – one color can show on top and another on the back.  They also can be different weights, but I’ll be honest, at least for me that situation introduces possible tension problems and tension headaches.  You need to decide if you want the thread to contrast with the back, so the stitches show up really well, or fade into the background by using one of the colors in the backing fabric.  And one more concept while we’re talking about the quilting thread – a busy back can cover a multitude of quilting sins.  With a printed back, your stitching “goofs” are more difficult to see, whereas on a solid back, they glare at you.

If you plan to pull the backing around to the front and stitch that down as binding, be sure your back matches or coordinates well with the front.  Otherwise, the binding will not frame the quilt, but contrast with the top.  And if your quilt is seasonal (such as a Christmas or Easter quilt), you have a couple of choices.  You can use seasonal fabrics on the back and have Santas or bunnies all over the quilt, or you can use a large print, non-seasonal backing, quilt it with an all-over neutral design, and have a reversable quilt which can be used year-round simply by flipping the quilt over. 

FABRIC TYPE

We are so fortunate to have such a wide variety of quilting fabrics.  For this particular part of my blog, we’re discussing cottons only.  We’ll deal with other fabric options at the end. 

As a general rule, the backing should coordinate with the top.  If you’re piecing your backing, this is easy to do.  You can use the left-over scraps from the top to piece your back.  You could make an additional block or two and use it in the back.  If you’ve made an applique quilt, put together a few extra applique pieces and place those on the back (my favorite way to do this is to frame the label with the applique).  But if you want to use a wide back (108-inches across the width or wider), this may be difficult because a wide back may not be exactly like any of the fabrics on the front of the quilt.  When this is the situation, I use one of the dominate colors on the top to help me choose the back.  For instance, if I have used lots of blue on the front, I’ll use a backing with a lot of blue.  Or if it’s an applique quilt, I’ll try to find a wide back that contributes to the theme – if I applique flowers, I’ll find a floral back.  A word of caution about the wide-backing fabric:  Some of it has a higher shrink rate than quilting cottons.  You may want to test the shrink rate by cutting a five-inch square, rinsing it in some water, and drying it in the dryer or allowing it to air dry (treat it the same way you plan to treat the quilt). Once dry, press flat, and re-measure it.  Any difference in size should give you an idea of how much the backing will shrink when you wash the entire quilt.    If the shrink rate is a lot, you may want to pre-wash your back before quilting. 

Regardless of whether you decide to piece the quilt back or purchase a wide quilt backing, keep in mind the backing must be wider than the top.  This is important for a couple of reasons.  First, the backing and  batting tend to shrink a bit during the quilting process.  To keep it from becoming smaller than the top, cut both larger and then trim down the excess before binding.  The second reason concerns those quilts which will be quilted on a long arm.  The long arm artist will need something to attach their clamps to in order to keep the quilt taunt.  The extra batting and backing fulfills that need.  Most quilt books, tutorials, etc., state the quilt back should be at least eight inches larger than the quilt top, all the way around the perimeter, and that is a comfortable amount for a long arm.  I tend to narrow that margin when quilting on my domestic sewing machine to three to four inches.  This eliminates a lot of the fabric bulk in the harp and makes turning the quilt easier.  I’ve also discovered quilt backing doesn’t shrink up as much when quilting on my M7 than it does on my long arm, so  I don’t need a lot of extra margin. 

SEAMS PLACEMENT IN QUILT BACKING

Generally, if the quilt is 61-inches or more wide, seams should run vertically in your quilt back.  If the quilt top is less than 61-inches wide, the seams should run horizontally.  This quilt math has to do with the weight of the quilt and the strain put on the seams.  The seam allowance should also be larger than a quilter’s standard quarter inch.  A full half-inch seam allowance absorbs the stress put on the backing better, and the seams should be pressed open to reduce the bulk. 

To make things easy on yourself, you probably want to avoid prints which would require matching to disguise the seams – such as plaids, checks, and stripes.

ODDS AND ENDS AND THOSE “OTHER” FABRICS

• Care Requirements – Choose fabrics with the same care requirements as the quilt top.
• Hand Quilting – If hand quilting, choose a more loosely woven fabric for the backing.

• Minky – Minky is a wonderful fabric for cuddle quilts and baby quilts.  Just be aware that it’s not cotton and does have some stretchy-ness to it. Personally, I think quilting the minky without the raised dots quilts easier, and if I’m quilting it on the longarm, I turn the selvedges crosswise instead of up and down to try to minimize the stretch as much as possible.  It is a type of backing I use only once in a while.
• Flannel – Like minky, flannel has a bit of a stretch factor, although not quite as much.  I don’t turn it crossways to quilt it – the stretch isn’t quite that bad.  If I use it on the long arm, I allow it to have a bit more “give” on the rollers than I do cotton fabric.
• Sheets —  Yes, you can use sheets as backing.  While I have never done this, I have talked to quilters who have. They caution to wash the flat sheet a few times to make it soft, and stay away from a really high thread count.  Most of them recommended sheets found in thrift stores as these have been used and washed numerous times and are super-soft. 
• Long Arm Artists – If you are “quilting by checkbook” be sure to consult the long arm artist about how they prefer the backing.  Preference can differ not only from machine to machine, and also from long armer to long armer.

I hope this information helps you as you choose your backing fabric.  Either pieced or wide backing should be given careful consideration.  Both are doable, both have their good points and not-so-good points.  Pieced backs help you wisely consume your stash, but some machines don’t like quilting over the seams.  Wide backs have no seams, but may have a higher shrink rate than regular quilting cottons.  The choice depends on your preferences (and your long-arm artist, if you’re using one). 

Until next week,

Love and Stitches,

Sherri and Felix